Sunday, April 26, 2009

Vacation is Good; Cheap Vacation in Tbilisi Doubly So

I've been here a good 11 months at this point, through good and bad. So it was about time that I got out of Armenia for a bit to see another place. It just so happened that several other volunteers were planning a trip to Tbilisi, and they invited me to tag along.

In no way was that a bad decision.

The strange thing about traveling to Tbilisi by train is that even though it's incredibly close to Yerevan (all things considered) it still takes 13-14 hours to get there. The train is incredibly antiquated, having been built during Soviet times. In addition, it stops a ridiculous amount of times along the way, and the border checks take upwards of 2 hours. You can tell that neither country has had the money it would take to upgrade the train, as it's often tilting to one side or another due to the amount of time it's been since they've been able to do work on the tracks (which would, I assume, require either stopping the train or having a diversion route, neither of which Armenia at least can afford to do). Regardless of that--and regardless of the incident we had on the train traveling to Georgia, which I'll write about in a moment--taking the train was great fun. It's the first time I've traveled anywhere by train, and I actually quite enjoyed the experience.

Alas, not all was well on the trip. We managed to get several things stolen from us, because we were far too trusting, one of those things that you learn from being in this culture. This Armenian guy came up and started talking to us--let's call him Fox Sneakertonyan--and, having learned that the best way to react in Armenia to new people is to chat it up with them and drink with them, we started taking shots of vodka, and then cognac (well, technically brandy, but they call it cognac). He seemed to be a nice enough guy, and eventually we were all buzzed and tired, so we agreed to lay down for a while, stupidly letting him stay in the same compartment with us. Luckily I grabbed my iPod because I'm totally paranoid about losing it but my phone and the two girls' cameras were sitting out. Now, we weren't that drunk, but enough so to let our guard down in this situation. One of the guys was half awake and noticed Fox Sneakertonyan up and looking around in the place where we had put our stuff, and then suddenly leave. By the time we were all able to get woken up he was gone. Fortunately for us, the guy was an idiot and the train folks had his passport number so it's possible we'll get our shit back, but perhaps not.

We finally got into Tbilisi Tuesday morning (having left Monday evening), got set up in a hostel, and explored the city. Tbilisi is an incredibly beautiful city and such a stark contrast to any other place in Armenia, Yerevan included. Many of the buildings are rather old and have been restored, making for a city that feels like you're in Europe and not just a couple hours north of Armenia. The people are incredibly friendly (and the men decent looking), the food is phenomenal, and the sights are lovely. The main Georgian national dish is khatchapuri, which is essentially just bread, butter, egg, and cheese; but damned if it isn't delicious! It comes in a ton of different shapes, flavors, styles, and extra ingredients, but I have not had khatchapuri yet that wasn't delicious. And they make it so much better in Georgia than in Armenia.

I also managed to make it to the gay bar with a couple other people and had a great time there. I just discovered a gay friendly bar in Yerevan, but this one in Tbilisi was more open about it and so was a great ton of fun. I tell you, there is no more welcoming environment for a boy than a gay bar in a small country. All the Georgian homos were so happy to see us there, buying us drinks and chatting like there was no tomorrow.

If there's one place that you ever want to visit in the Caucasus, make it Tbilisi. You will not regret it.

Hopefully I'll be able to post some pictures in the next few days.


Kim said...

Hey. I know this is random, but whatever. I came across your blog and thought I would say as such.

I'm a volunteer in Azerbaijan and last month I took my Georgian vacation of amazingness. I loved it all! Glad to hear you, too, enjoyed it!

I have a question for you, answer if you please. I was wondering how Armenians talk of Azerbaijanis? We seem to have a lot of the same issues country-wise and I was wondering if we did propaganda-wise as well? I don't take stock in the majority Azerbaijanis say, especially when it comes to Armenia, but I think it'd be interesting to hear from your sides' perspective. We talk about it here and are curious.

Michele (Razzy) said...

Sounds like fun!! Someday I'll have to tell you some of my train stories from the summer I spent 3 months practically living on trains via a Eurailpass (1982) ... different era, but some of the same train problems, though, traveling through the Eastern bloc -- which was still Communist at that point.

I see another PCV has stumbled upon your blog, too. :)

ryertoug said...

Hey sounds very cool. Im actually going to be volunteering in Vanadzor(i think its called) starting July 2009. Im going to be helping Habitat for Humanity with some building.
Fortunately I get weekends of and will probably be hanging out in Yerevan most of the time. And would like to check out the Gay bar you mentioned. Do you know how I could find it???

John said...


Yeah, it's actually really easy. It's on Toumanyan Street (which is the street right below the opera house) and it's called Cocoon. It's on the left hand side of the street and is a downstairs bar. It's before the SAS Supermarket, so if you've got that far you've gone too far.

tdmiracle said...

Im glad the vacation turned out so well and hope you get your stuff back Iv been emailing cause its so hard to access the blog are they coming through

Frank said...

Hi man, what's the address of the gay bar in tbilis if you don't mind? many thanks :0 I'm heading there for work...

John said...


Here's the info on Success gay bar. It's a great place, and so incredibly friendly are the homos there. Enjoy mate!

Name: Success
Spartacus Codes: B glm M MA r
Street: 3, Vashvlovanis Street
Location: Tbilisi
Description of Location: (In Perovskaia district)
Commentary: Once very stylish place, nowadays casual cruising bar, frequently visited by straight people.